Eugenia/Syzygium sp.

Eugenia Paniculata (Australian Brush Cherry) is now grouped with the Old World Eugenias (those from Africa, Asia and Australia) and are now known as Syzygium Paniculata. There is a plethora of common or Trade 
names for cultivars with different characteristics. Some
are now being developed for hedges and topiary in
Australia.
The confusion over the name, and lack of references probably stems from the fact that the poor things have had more names than Elizabeth Taylor. They have been at times : Acmena, Jambosa, Phyllocadyx, Eugenia, Stenocalyx, Myrtus and now ...Syzygium. 
The last relates to the seeds.
They are most commonly called Lillypilly in Australia (I think it is an Aboriginal word) . There are around ten to twelve commonly grown species and cultivars in the Brisbane, Queensland area, where the climate is very similar to Florida ( Mild winters, rarely below 5 deg C, and warm summers, rarely over 32 deg C) The bulk of the species Tropical and semi-tropical rainforest trees, all with edible fruit.
In very warm climates , wiring is a major hassle, as the branches swell rapidly with spring growth, and will leave wire scars within weeks

Hope some of this is of help.

help,
my girlfriend gave me a bonsai for my birthday. she said 
it was a good stress reducer, but since i know nothing
about them it has done the opposite.  any tips or suggestions,
books, web sites, ect., would be appreciated. the tree is
a cherry (eugenia)

help,
my girlfriend gave me a bonsai for my birthday. she said 
it was a good stress reducer, but since i know nothing
about them it has done the opposite.  any tips or suggestions,
books, web sites, ect., would be appreciated. 

     I received an Australian Brush Cherry as a gift,  
(Eugenia Paniculata), though I cannot find anyting 
on the WEB about the Paniculata in particualr.  It
is seven years old, and there are sprouts comming 
up from the moss.  I do not know if I should attempt
to remove the sprouts..or leave them be and let them grow.
One of the three sprouts(the largest) is about one inch 
long and is growing one leaf, with the same characteristics
of the tree's leaves.
 
     please Email me ....at either: jadanie@ibm.net
                                          OR
                                    gforce@topcity.mn.org
 
 
                    Thank you -
                    J.Alan
  

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Date: Fri, 2 Aug 1996 18:06:54 -0400
From: RickBonsai@AOL.COM

I've only grown one of these, and only for a couple of years, but they seem
to be very easy to care for.  I suggest root pruning and repotting in early
to mid spring, keep it evenly moist, and lots of sun.  If your summer sun is
not too intense, it can be sited in full sun, otherwise some afternoon shade
would be beneficial.  For short internodes, pinch back the new growth
throughout the growing season.

I really haven't done a lot to the tree I have, it's still in the training
pot.  The one 'problem' I have seen is that it likes to send out several
branches from the same place and if the extras are not removed a knob will
develop.

Australian Brush Cherry has had two botanical names, Eugenia myrtifolia and
Syzygium paniculatum (not sure which is current).

Rick
S-most, Tx

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From: Russ Martin 
Date: 4 Aug 1996 03:20:25 GMT

I've been growing Surinam cherries for 3 or 4 years. They are very easy 
to care for with the one exception being that scale can be problem but 
also easy to control. I found the best time for root pruning and potting 
is July - August in Zone 6 - New England. I just potted up 2 about 3 
weeks ago and had cut about 90% of the root off (by accident) leaving 
only 2 short stubs about 1/2" long. This happened to both trees since 
their trunks were buried deeply in there pots and didn't expect that. I 
had to wrap wire around the trunks and pots and place stone against them 
to keep them upright. I Thought they would never make but 3 weeks later 
they are firmly rooted in the pots and growing. They seem to handle 
EXTREME root prunning very well.
I also use Peters 20-20-20, Fish Emulsion and Miracid fertilizers every 
2 weeks. In the fall I leave them out into the low 50's for a few weeks 
then bring them in and grow them under fluorecent lights (one cool white 
and one Grow Lux or equiv.). They seem to do very well over the winter 
and put on much new growth. The room is kept between 60 and 75 deg. (60 
at night). During the summer I keep them in light shade with early 
morning sun and they are kept moist all year but I do occasionaly let 
them dry out during the winter. The soil mix I've used is 1/3 coarse 
sand, 1/3 Terragreen and 1/3 Pine bark. I've recently tried 40% 
Terragreen and 40% pine bark with 20% Peat. I've also propagated a few 
from cuttings with good success.

Russ

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From: mikechar@bnr.ca (Mike Charlton)
Date: 17 Jun 1996 15:15:15 GMT

Hello.  I haven't had much luck finding information on this plant.
I've had a Eugenia Myrtifolia since Christmas, and after a lot of trial
and error (more error than anything else :-(), I've discovered a few
things.

This plant like water.  I keep it evenly moist all the time.  If I
let it dry out at all, it drops leaves (and twigs, and branches...).
I kept it in a bright, but not sunny location for most of the winter
and have gradually moved it into a sunnier place.  Right now it's outside
with about 6 hours of afternoon sun.  It definitely seems happy there.

So far, I've done *lots* of pruning and it has responded very well.
It seems to bud back just about anywhere.  I also did some minor surgery
to the root ball (hacked off about 20%) during the winter.  At the time,
it was slowly dieing and I couldn't figure out what was wrong.  As a last
resort, I bare-rooted it.  The root ball was an absolute mess and I realized
that I wouldn't be ale to get the thing back in the pot without some
root pruning.  Even though it was in bad shape, it responded to the root
pruning very well.  It is quite healthy now.  I intend to hack away
a bit more next spring.

So, based on my limited experience, treat your Eugenia like a tropical
(indoors or outdoors, depending on where you live); give it lots of
water and light; and prune it as hard as you want.

             Hope this helps,
                 Mike

P.S.  I'm in Ottawa.  The above advice may or may not be useful where

=================================================================

From: Russ Martin 
Date: 18 Jun 1996 03:59:18 GMT

I've been growing Brush Cherries for 4 years. In the winter I grow 
them under fluorecent lights (1 warm and one cool white) at about
4 inches from the lights with no natural light. In summer, outdoors 
under a shade screen. They like to be repotted and root pruned 
in warm humid weather, although other times may be possible with 
proper care. I had one in a nursery pot that was almost dead from 
root rot and completely bare rooted it and cut 90% of the roots off. 
I repotted it in my bonsai soil mix and within a month had roots=
comming out the bottom of the pot. I feed mine an acid fertilizer 
alternating with 20-20-20 and fish emulsion. They are very easy 
to grow if kept slightly moist but I have had mine dry out during 
the day with no ill effects. The only thing to watch out for is scale
..aside from ficus this probably one of their favorite plants to attack.

Russ

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From: Ken Devos 

Surinam Cherry, a native to Brazil, is used quite extensively in south
Florida as an ornamental hedge.  A friend of mine in Miami has a hedge
of this in his back yard which was 15 feet high.  The fruit are dark red
when ripe, in 8 ribbed sections.  They are eaten fresh or made into
jellies.

The leaves are waxy and glossy, normally about 2" long.  According to
the booklet "Florida Fruit" by Lewis and Betty Maxwell, it "can be
pruned to a small tree".  It is very tolerant of soil conditions, but
prefers a Ph of 5.5 to 7.5.  Growth is moderate.  It freezes at about
30 degrees (F) but will come back.  It prefers sun.  Propagation is by
seed that will germinate in 3-4 weeks.  Root cuttings are sometimes
used.  No serious pests other than Caribbean fruit fly.  Flowers are
creamy white & about 1/2" across, in April or May.

Hope that helps.

Ken Devos
Ft. Myers Beach, FL
ken1d@iline.com

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Date: Sat, 10 Aug 1996 07:51:00 -0400
From: IrisCohen@AOL.COM

Russ,
Surinam cherry is Eugenia uniflora.
Brush cherry is Syzygium paniculatum.
Teeny Genie is Syzygium paniculatum var. globulus.
Iris

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From: TomZ50925@aol.com
Date: Fri, 19 Jul 1996 09:46:16 -0400

This post may be incorporated into the Tree Care FAQ to be republished
for general distribution.

Jaboticaba

General Information: Jaboticaba, pronounced in five syllables just as it is
spelled, is a member of the Myrtaceae (Myrtle) family and is known
botanically as Eugenia cauliflora. ("Cauliflora" means that it flowers and
bears fruit on the trunk, mature branches and exposed roots.) It is a
relative of the guava and true myrtle. Its native range is from southern
Brazil to southern California, southern Florida and Hawaii. 

Sources: Available in nurseries in the warmer climates and from bonsai
specialty growers. It is best propagated by air layering and by seed, but
root cuttings will grow well too. 

 Care: Early care must be given to avoid heavy branches on the upper portion
of the tree as it sets heavy wood very quickly, especially toward its top. If
nursery stock is obtained with heavy upper branches, remove them and train
the new growth which will appear. Wounds tend to heal quickly. Any wiring
should be done loosely and early in the growing season. Repot only in warm
weather. If the plant is healthy it is safe to remove up to two thirds of its
roots. Jaboticaba prefers fertile, well drained but moisture retentive soil;
azalea soil works well. The traditional brown bonsai container contrasts well
with the light mottled bark and seems to highlight the new pink leaves. A
soft blue green glaze is nice too with the bark and leaves.  Water adequately
and frequently. It thrives in partial shade but will tolerate full sun if
kept well watered. It will not tolerate salt. Acid fertilizer is best but
Jaboticaba likes lots of food and will be thankful for just about anything
you give it. About the only pests bothering it are aphids on the new tender
pink leaves and an occasional red spider mite attack. Because it is native to
a warm climate, it must be protected from freezing temperatures.

Interesting facts: The bark of the Jaboticaba is very smooth, creamy tan with
a pinkish tint and patches of soft gray. Its habit of peeling off in curls as
the trunk and branches expand is similar to the guava and crape myrtle. It is
evergreen but sheds half its leaves each spring before new growth begins. The
new leaves are pinkish bupacked and are narrow and tapering. It blooms several times a year during
warm months. The flower has delicate white petals with stamens and comes in
clusters on the trunk, large branches and exposed roots.  The tree begins to
bear fruit when it is ten to fifteen years old. Its edible purple berries are
globular shaped, 3/4" to 1 1/2" in diameter, have a tough skin and a juicy
pulp. The fruit grows directly from the hard wood of the tree and develops
very quickly; from open flower to ripe fruit in about three weeks. It is good
to eat fresh, in preserves or in ice cream. 

Bibliography:
"Bonsai Hints & Tips", Florida Bonsai, VIII, 3:39.
"Educational Forum, Eugenia cauliflora (Jaboticaba)",  by Trudy Santille,
Florida Bonsai, VIII, 3:18-20.
"Jaboticaba", by Mayna Hutchinson, Florida Bonsai, XIV, 2:2-9.
"Jaboticaba - Graceful Lady of the Tropics", by Martha Olga Botero de Gomez,
Bonsai Magazine, XXXII, 3:11-13.

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